I never would have imagined ever going on a zodiac whale tour. The thought of falling overboard consumes me- it’s probably why I didn’t get much sleep last night. Zipping along, crashing over the waves, bumping and flying across the ocean at top speed on the hunt for massive whales- this has never been something I wanted to do. But today it’s exactly what I did.
I will be honest; I ate breakfast this morning with a little hesitation, wondering if it were all just going to come back up and out when we hit the water. I almost chickened out when I saw the zodiac speeding across the water towards us- it was tiny and fast! I could barely hold on in the big boat in Twillingate. What the heck would I do on this little devil?
The zodiac pulled up with Ed English, owner of the Quirpon Lighthouse Inn and Linkum Tours, at the wheel. His charm and easygoing nature put me right at ease. Plus, he said we were headed to the iceberg so I was determined to suck up my fear and tough it out. I climbed aboard and was seated directly behind him, rather than on the sides; my fear was evident and apparently this was the spot that would be the least bumpy and the most secure. I will say though that not being able to see where we were going made the ride to the iceberg nerve-wracking. Everyone kept oohing and ahhing but I couldn’t see anything so my anticipation just kept building. Every time we crashed over the waves my grip tightened and my eyes closed.
You see pictures of things and marvel at their beauty but it’s entirely different when it’s right in front of you. We had seen this iceberg from the road. I had taken pictures of it. It was only when we stopped and rested less than 100ft (30m) away from the iceberg that I could really take in how magnificent and beautiful it truly was. It was massive though I don’t know if any photograph can really put into perspective just how big. And the colour… it was blue and turquoise and white and grey and brown and cream… and shiny! As we drifted and took pictures and marveled at its enormity and awesomeness, we got to see it from all different angles. It changed and looked different as it caught the light or as a part became shadowed by an overhanging piece. At one point there was a low sort of rumble and then a very loud crack. It took us all by surprise and it was a very sharp reminder of why we weren’t getting any closer. When we went back around the way we had come, we could see the floating chunks from the piece that had broken off.
I will say that had the tour ended there, I think most of us would have been pretty content. I don’t know that I will get another chance to see an iceberg. I know how fortunate we are that we saw this one, let alone two, this late in the year. When I sit and think about it, the weather we have been having, the things we have seen, the people we have met… I just sit back and smile.
Ed kept us amused with all his stories. He was quite the storyteller! He has a ton of stories about the land, the people and the history. He knows so much, having grown up in Newfoundland and it was so apparent that he loves his home. It was infectious.
Before long he was pointing and calling out “Whale!” At one point we didn’t know where to look. He saw some fins and recognized a pod of Atlantic white-sided dolphins. He started stomping on the bottom of the boat (not to scare them, he reassured us, but to invite them to come and play) and sure enough, they came to “play”. They were under us, in front of us, beside us- we couldn’t look quickly enough to see them as they were racing around.
Then there was a whale (in the left third of the photo- you can just barely make it out, but it’s there!) casually swimming and feeding along the rocks. While hard to photograph because it looked just like one of the rocks, it was wonderful to see it just gracefully moving along, spouting and flicking its tail every so often. At one point it seemed there were two of them.
As if on cue, when the whale seemed to be growing tired of us following along beside it, the dolphins returned and did they ever put on a show. They raced alongside us and started jumping out of the water and breaching. They jumped and leaped about all over the place. It was such fun to watch and you couldn’t help but laugh and smile.
By this point we were all a little exhausted. The fresh air and the excitement of all the action on the ocean were a little overwhelming, though in an exhilarating way. We headed back to shore, so happy that we decided to go on this tour rather than the other and so pleased with all that we had seen.
I should mention that after leaving the iceberg I moved to the front of the boat and stood for the rest of the trip. Most of the time I was only holding on with one hand. Being able to see where we were going and standing up, rather than sitting, made for a much smoother ride and my nerves totally disappeared. I think the expertise and relaxed nature of Ed, our guide, made the difference. I actually thoroughly enjoyed the whole trip back. What a terrific experience!
There are three recommended restaurants (and a fantastic café) in this area and luckily we had two dinners and two lunches to eat so could try them all. Tonight we went to the Daily Catch for dinner. It was packed! There were no available tables, probably as there was a local musical act performing, and we didn’t have a reservation. A couple offered for Nina and I to join them at their table. We thought that was awfully kind; sometimes after a long day you don’t want to have to entertain strangers while you enjoy dinner.
They were Judy and Gilles from Montreal and what a pleasure it was to have dinner with them. We laughed and shared stories about travelling. They travel by motorbike and this was their second time in Newfoundland. They also told us about one trip they made from Montreal to Vancouver Island… on motorbike. 19 days on the road. I imagine it must be a fantastic way to see the country.
They told us about some new equipment they bought for this trip, including electric jackets. They plug themselves in to the bike and their jackets become like big heating blankets. I am not sure about using them in the rain… could be a little tingly! They told us how they saw moose earlier in the day and of course, that lit a little fire in us and so we headed back to the road where we were told the moose would be.
What a day it’s been. Icebergs, whales, dolphins… and yes, two moose! We finally saw one moose bum running in to the bushes, and then on our second pass we saw a rather huge mamma moose (a cow) and her baby (calf). Check! Check! Check! and Check! What a fantastic way to end an already fantastic day!