Look at all the beaches!

It was day 2 and we were ready! We had only been in Alghero two nights but we already had a bit of a routine and rhythm established. Coffee and a bite by the sea and then we decide we would rent bikes. The weather was perfect and the traffic was light.

We had planned to take a boat tour so figured we would ride around until it was time for the tour. Of course once we were on the bikes we decided we needed some photos. Nothing like the three mini-Marias on wheels, causing chaos by the sea.

There were a few boat tours to choose from and as we hemmed and hawed about what we wanted to see, in the end the real deciding factor was that one boat tour offered snacks and wine. Our decision was made! We headed for a quick gelato stop, loaded up on sunscreen and boarded the boat.

Paula was the only one of us who thought to bring her swimsuit which worked out perfectly because someone needed to stay on board to take photos. Soon enough, all the swimmers were asking to have their photos taken. Thank you Apple for AirDrop… Rather than just snap and be done, I kept moving around the boat to make sure I was getting people at good angles and that the lighting was good. Karen needed to remind me that the pictures didn’t have to actually be good. I was retaking until they were photos I would appreciate. I stopped short of editing them before airdropping them. Lesson learned!

The water was clear and apparently a little fresh! But the sun was shining and it was hot- it was definitely a perfect day and spot for a dip.

After our three hour tour, we were back on our bikes and headed back to get ready for the evening. It was to be our last dinner out. We headed to Rafel for an aperitivo and then settled in for dinner. I was determined to try a couple Sardinian specialties before leaving and managed two at this meal. The food was delicious, the ambiance outstanding and the company perfect! We had packed a ton into our short visit. It was just what I hoped it would be.

Dinner was delicious and I am not sure any of us could have taken another bite but we weren’t ready to call it a night. So, we headed back to the place we had had our first meal together when we arrived on the first night. The server had told us that on Saturdays it became like a discoteca and he hadn’t exaggerated. As we walked up, we could hear the band doing an amazing cover of the Cranberries. The place was packed but as usually worked out, there was a spot for the three of us and soon we were toasting with some Prosecco rosé! Cheers to us! We started planning where to go next year…

We had the bikes for 24 hours so once we were up and packed the next morning we decided to take a ride in the opposite direction- away from town. It was early, we thought it was cooler until we stopped at the bar for our morning drink and snack dripping with sweat. We had definitely lucked out with the weather.

And that was it. We rode back, and went straight to return the bikes. Some last minute packing, a goodbye snack and we were off to the airport. We sat and talked until the last minute and then shared a teary farewell. I will be forever grateful we had this time together. Until the next time!

Until we meet again

It has been a year of unexpected travel bonuses. The 2023 Europa League final when we were in Budapest and now the UCI World Cycling Championships. It’s also been a year of wonderful travel experiences.

It was a good long journey to Glasgow. An uneventful 14-hour ferry ride followed by a loungy breakfast stop at Starbucks before boarding the 3-hour train to Glasgow.

When an early check-in was offered to us, we didn’t hesitate to take it. It was quickly apparent that many cycling teams were starting at the hotel and when we headed to our room, we realized we were right next door to the tan for China. We saw them on bikes, getting massages and just hanging out. And they bikes lined the hallways.

We were pretty exhausted by this point. All I wanted was a shower and to wash my hair. I figured I’d take a chance and dry it, hoping for a little more manageable hair than I’d had pretty much the entire trip. Nina decided to go out and explore a little and by the time I was done, she was back with some drinks and snacks. We toasted our trip which was almost at the end.

The under 23 road race was coming into Glasgow for the final stretch and we had seen the route as there were barricades everywhere. How fortunate were we to catch the last couple of laps! We found a corner and cheered our hearts out as the riders zipped by, especially when Canadian and Danish riders passed (and riders from England and Italy).

The winner! @lauranceaxel

That night was truly our last supper of the trip. Burgers and Aperol Spritz seemed the perfect meal over which to discuss the highlights and talk about the weeks to come as we prepared to return to our lives. As usual, our selfie was an experience in itself, taking numerous shots before we settled on one that was “fine”.

Not surprisingly, we were in bed super early- it had been a busy trip, that’s for sure!

Packed and organized early, we had decided to go for an early breakfast to get the day started. Nina had some things to take care of so I took advantage of the few short hours I had before we had to catch our buses and went out to explore Glasgow.

It was the final day of the cycling championships so people were already on the course. The city wasn’t busy yet so it was a great time to be out.

Glasgow has some amazing street art so I made sure to include a couple of murals on my route. I wished I had had time for more. I also wanted to see the Lighthouse, St Enoch subway station (though I think I missed the boat on that one), Barras market and the river. Also bumped into some of the cyclists who’d be racing in the morning road race.

The selfie-exhaustion pose

While out I started to think that I hoped if I ran late that Nina would just head to the station without me. We were heading to different airports and she had to leave before I did as she had a longer journey. Then I realized that we wouldn’t actually say goodbye if that happened so I got my butt moving so I wouldn’t be late.

We headed to the bus station, took more selfies and then went our separate ways. It’s always a bit sad saying goodbye.

Travelling isn’t always easy and not everyone travels well together. As I watched Nina’s bus pull away I thought about how grateful I was for the opportunity to travel together, grateful to have found a friend on that train 10 years ago who loved travelling similarly to me and who I could spend multiple weeks with and want to do it again. I am grateful that Nina is a part of so many wonderful memories and experiences. I can only hope we meet again!

Cool breeze, tight squeeze

I was awoken by the sound of the wind buffeting against the house. Loud wind. Powerful wind. Tonight we take the ferry from Lerwick to Aberdeen. It’s a long, overnight ferry. I am hoping for calm waters! 🤢

It was “our last supper” as Amanda called it. Our final breakfast at North Ness House- figured that called for a big Shetland breakfast! The wind was hanging about and the rain had moved in. I had planned on doing my hair this morning before heading out but decided against it. Why bother!? It would be in knots within seconds! Amanda let us know that there was no rush to head out so we enjoyed a little quiet time with our books and packing before hitting the road.

You never know what you’ll get with a bed and breakfast. You are staying in someone’s home and sharing their space and it can either be great or a nightmare or sometimes even just awkward. I’ve never had a bad experience (that I can remember) so was hopeful.

North Ness House was no exception. Amanda and Peter, Buzz, Cassie and Nala (not sure of those spellings) welcomed us into their beautiful home and made us feel welcome. They shared stories, helped us in any way they could, offered suggestions and recommendations, fed us delicious homemade meals and baking, and really did so much to make our stay as enjoyable as possible. Our room was such a great place to come home to after our long days out. This place will definitely stay in my “fondest memories of travel” bank.

The weather had definitely turned and it was windy and rainy. Not a day to be out on footpaths or steep cliffs, that’s for sure! So, indoor activities were googled – our day would include some time at the Scalloway Museum and the Shetland Textile museum.

I knitted a row for the 100+ foot scarf, added my name to the list of knitters and then spent some time chatting with two of the resident knitters. One of them told me about the “simple” pattern she was following… sounded pretty complicated for me. I’m more a blanket knitter myself!

As we were leaving, the rain started pouring down. I mean in buckets. We decided to sit in the car to have lunch and wait out the storm. If I’ve learned nothing else on this trip I have learned patience is key- how quickly the weather changes in Shetland and Orkney!

We searched for a cafe after only to find that most were full. I can’t imagine many people wanted to be out sightseeing. I became the queen of the roundabout turnaround- so much easier than making a u-turn or three-point turn in the street. 🙂 On our drive we spotted a sign for the Isleburgh Community Centre which had a café so decided to go spend some time there. No fresh cakes but they made a good decaf latte.

We walked around Lerwick when the skies cleared. I happened upon a wedding- men in kilts and the bridesmaids in bright blue. Unfortunately I wasn’t quick enough to snap a photo and just got a shot of the aftermath!

Then we headed to the ferry. It was going to be a long one! We boarded at 1630 as we were tired of wandering aimlessly. Some dinner and dessert, ferry-style. We would be on board until 0700. Thankfully we had booked a pod again and eventually settled in for the ride.

I Love a Good Pirate Story!

All the wine and food and giggles last night, along with a bedtime in the wee hours of the morning meant that no one was up early- not even me.

We had plans to go for coffee and cake at the Oratory, a wander through the Sunday market, some people watching and house hunting in Sandbanks and then a leisurely hike to Old Harry Rocks. By the time we all woke up and got sorted, plans had to be adjusted. The later departure coupled with the dreary skies made the decisions really easy- decision making is not always a quick and easy thing with the 6 Marias.

I always love a good market but I rarely shop when travelling as I only bring carryon luggage and have limited space. Luckily, Mum and Dad (who arrives next week) both pack light but bring bigger cases so I knew they’d probably have space, if needed. The market was small and pretty closed up by the time we got there but we managed to buy some freshly baked goods, samosas, garlic/wild garlic/sun dried tomato mix and garlic bowls. For someone who packs light, I now had a small ceramic baking bowl and two garden gnomes to transport back to Canada.

A surprise visit to the Aviary and all that walking around the market meant everyone was ready for a sit down with a cup of something and a snack. Sometimes the eyes are bigger than the stomach. Three cakes to share and a drink each sounded manageable for Paula, Karen and I. Surprisingly, we weren’t successful in finishing it all. Perhaps it was the extra whipped cream and marshmallows added to the decadent hot chocolate.

We took a drive through Sandbanks and boarded the ferry to go check out Old Harry Rocks. There were many beautiful buildings and some great trails when we got to the South Beach Car Park. We wandered down to the beach where we had a distant view of Old Harry. At this point we decided to split up: Mum and the Aunties and Karen went to the pub for a hot drink while Paula and I were sent on a mission to photograph Old Harry Rocks.

From Wikipedia and the National Trust: Old Harry Rocks are three chalk formations, including a stack and a stump. The stack is called Old Harry and the stump is his wife! It is said that the name Old Harry Rocks either comes from an old pirate or the devil! They mark the most eastern point of the Jurassic Coast and are a UNESCO World Heritage site.

This isn’t my photo. We couldn’t get this view- this is a photo from the National Trust website. But it shows the stack and the stump.

It didn’t take as long as expected and soon enough we too were joining them at the pub for a drink and a nibble. We drove back through Sandbanks- an area famous for wealthy people and some of the most expensive properties in the UK. Apparently Liam Gallagher has a house there and can often be seen riding his bike around. I kept my eyes peeled! Maybe he was one of the paddle boarders.

Our evening was once again filled with delicious foods, a little less drink and more stories but this night was more subdued as we began to make arrangements for the morning when we’d head out. Our girls’ weekend was coming to an end.

I’ll be heading back to Canada and Mum’s vacation will continue. It was decided that I would leave all my clothes behind since I am back in 10 days. That’s right- not long now before the adventures continue. Some lucky aunt/cousin will take all my laundry and I’ll collect it when I return. I was going to be travelling home with an empty case! In true Maria form, there was more discussing about options and what could be done so in the end it was decided that I might as well take some stuff in my empty case. So now it’s me and the four gnomes-Charlie, Elton, Elton and Charlie who will be making the journey home. Fingers crossed we make it over without incident!

As I sit here in the quiet early morning, I can’t help but smile as a tear rolls down my cheek. I’m sad it’s over, but what a gift this weekend has been! We have laughed and laughed and laughed. And we have cried. We have told stories and connected. We have made so many wonderful memories together. The weekend is what I hopped out would be, and so much more. It’s a weekend I won’t soon forget.

Thank you to the five other Marias- love you all to bits xo

Why don’t you bloody go back then?

It’s been 10 years since Mum and I last travelled together. The last time was when she came and met me in Russia in 2013.

I was excited to travel together again. I have always seen the people on the golf carts zipping around the airport and getting taken to their gates. I asked Mum on the way to the airport how she would feel about faking some aches and pains so we could try to hitch a ride on a golfcart. Then as we were checking in her bag, two attendants approached and asked if she would like to be taken by wheelchair through security. It’s like they had read my mind! Before she could answer, I asked the most important question- could I take photos for my blog? They were happy to let us photograph the experience so strapped her in and off we went.

We jumped the security line and they placed all our stuff in the bins for us. They then took us to a special area where we waited for the golfcart. I think I was more excited than Mum. The airport staff seemed to enjoy my excitement though because they kept reminding me to take photos and one even suggested a video might be good. The woman who drove us in the golf cart kept ringing her bell as she weaved through the crowds. I was so tempted to do the Royal wave but was pretty sure that would’ve been too much.

They recognized us at the gate so we were among the first to board the plane. Travelling with a senior certainly does it have its perks! We were settled in quickly and ready to head out! As much as the seats were uncomfortable and the flight was long, the Air Transat staff were lovely and we were definitely well-cared for.

Aunty Jen and Uncle Hugh came and picked us up at the airport and then we were transferred to Paula who was taking us the rest of the way. With the car packed to the gills, snacks at the ready, we were off. As we travelled along the motorway, we heard a car honking away beside and realized that Karen and Aunty Lin had caught us up. It was perfect timing. The ladies at the sea were on their way!

As we pulled up to the place, our groceries arrived so we unloaded the groceries, unpacked our bags and settled in.The place is perfect! There’s tons of space, the rooms are lovely and clean and the kitchen and common areas are ample.

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“Happy is the man, I thought, who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean sea.” ― Nikos Kazantzakis, Zorba the Greek

Greece is calm and beautiful and relaxing and slow-paced. In a nutshell, it’s everything that I am not! J I think that as much as we are opposites, this was probably the best place for me to start my vacation because it has forced me to slow down and unwind. So much so, that I think Nina is a little frustrated because now all I want to do is find a shady corner and read my book and nap. I figure we will be zipping around Georgia and Armenia soon enough so I should enjoy and relish this time to do nothing while I can.

As a result, today’s blog is going to be a little lackluster. We haven’t really done anything so I didn’t take many photos and I don’t have much to say.

We boarded the ferry at 6 this morning and what a different experience to the last ferry I took to get to Syros from Athens. That ferry was massive, and packed and so very busy and crowded. This ferry was practically empty. As we were leaving so early, it was actually almost cool since the sun wasn’t yet out. What a treat – the sun rose in the sky just before we headed out. It was massive and orange- perhaps we should have heeded “Red sky in the morning, sailors take warning!

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We were the second stop and I think there might have been 8 of us to get off. I spent most of the time inside, sleeping on a comfy couch. I was the only one in the entire room, The Saloon. When I went up, about a ½ hour before we were supposed to dock, I almost got blown off the deck. I couldn’t get over how strong the wind was. My hair was whipping around my head, my camera almost blew out of my hand and I had to seriously brace myself so as not to fall over. And that’s the truth- not a word of exaggeration. I was amazed anyone could stand near the railing and truly believe that they may have lost people over the side on past ferries. Perhaps that’s why we had fewer than 10 people getting off on Andros. It shouldn’t have surprised me too much because while down below, I watched as the boat listed from side to side. I am surprised no one was seasick- one minute the horizon line was at the top of the window and the next the it was at the very bottom. And it was like that the whole way.

I was happy to get our stuff and get off the boat. This island was bigger than Syros but we weren’t staying in the port town of Gavrios. Instead we were heading to a smaller, prettier town called Batsi. Batsi is indeed very pretty but really, it is a beach town. There are restaurants on one side of the street and the beach on the other. If you are feeling really adventurous, you can order you food AT the beach. Other than that, there’s not much else going on in Batsi. We even went to inquire about a day trip, or boat tour only to learn these only happened on Sundays. That didn’t help us much.

Some pastries for breakfast because even though we were ready for lunch at 11, no restaurants were ready for us, some reading and some iced coffee and then some more reading. Finally we checked in to our hotel, settled in for our one night here and had a bit a lie in. It had been a long day, thus far and we were both keen on getting cooled down and reading some more and maybe a nap too, if luck allowed. I FaceTimed with home and then it was time to head for dinner.

We haven’ t been splurging on dinners, mainly because every restaurant seems to make and sell the same stuff, but tonight we thought we would go all out. We hadn’t eaten much all day so with empty bellies and recent reviews we went out in search of a suitable dinner spot.

Garlic dip and fresh bread, grilled feta cheese, grilled sea bream with pomme frites (grilled swordfish and “a kind of spinach” for Nina), watermelon, Greek white wine and water, and we were pretty stuffed. A nice walk after dinner with a little ice cream made for a pretty great night. The food was delicious, the wine refreshing and the ice cream just perfect to end the night.

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And so that’s it for today. Tomorrow we might actually attempt to go for a swim in the sea… might! And then it’s back to Athens to fly to Yerevan because we start our tour on Friday. It’s hard to believe that I have been gone almost a week.

Canada Is…

Rocks, trees and lakes (and fields). That’s what Nina said today, and really, she would know as she’s seen a fair bit of our country now with 9 of our provinces under her belt, (even if some were just through the window of a moving vehicle). It’s amazing that such simple things can be so varied and so beautiful.

We drove almost 5000km this trip. True to form, we packed our last day and saw as much as we could. We drove to Peggy’s Cove, Mahone Bay and Lunenburg and stopped at a bunch of small villages along the way. This is the third time I have been to Peggy’s Cove and it was just as grey, and just as beautiful as I remembered.

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Icebergs and Dolphins and Whales, Oh My! (and Moose!)

I never would have imagined ever going on a zodiac whale tour. The thought of falling overboard consumes me- it’s probably why I didn’t get much sleep last night. Zipping along, crashing over the waves, bumping and flying across the ocean at top speed on the hunt for massive whales- this has never been something I wanted to do. But today it’s exactly what I did.

I will be honest; I ate breakfast this morning with a little hesitation, wondering if it were all just going to come back up and out when we hit the water. I almost chickened out when I saw the zodiac speeding across the water towards us- it was tiny and fast! I could barely hold on in the big boat in Twillingate. What the heck would I do on this little devil?

The zodiac pulled up with Ed English, owner of the Quirpon Lighthouse Inn and Linkum Tours, at the wheel. His charm and easygoing nature put me right at ease. Plus, he said we were headed to the iceberg so I was determined to suck up my fear and tough it out. I climbed aboard and was seated directly behind him, rather than on the sides; my fear was evident and apparently this was the spot that would be the least bumpy and the most secure. I will say though that not being able to see where we were going made the ride to the iceberg nerve-wracking. Everyone kept oohing and ahhing but I couldn’t see anything so my anticipation just kept building. Every time we crashed over the waves my grip tightened and my eyes closed.
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You see pictures of things and marvel at their beauty but it’s entirely different when it’s right in front of you. We had seen this iceberg from the road. I had taken pictures of it. It was only when we stopped and rested less than 100ft (30m) away from the iceberg that I could really take in how magnificent and beautiful it truly was. It was massive though I don’t know if any photograph can really put into perspective just how big. And the colour… it was blue and turquoise and white and grey and brown and cream… and shiny! As we drifted and took pictures and marveled at its enormity and awesomeness, we got to see it from all different angles. It changed and looked different as it caught the light or as a part became shadowed by an overhanging piece. At one point there was a low sort of rumble and then a very loud crack. It took us all by surprise and it was a very sharp reminder of why we weren’t getting any closer. When we went back around the way we had come, we could see the floating chunks from the piece that had broken off.

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I will say that had the tour ended there, I think most of us would have been pretty content. I don’t know that I will get another chance to see an iceberg. I know how fortunate we are that we saw this one, let alone two, this late in the year. When I sit and think about it, the weather we have been having, the things we have seen, the people we have met… I just sit back and smile.

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Ed kept us amused with all his stories. He was quite the storyteller! He has a ton of stories about the land, the people and the history. He knows so much, having grown up in Newfoundland and it was so apparent that he loves his home. It was infectious.

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Before long he was pointing and calling out “Whale!” At one point we didn’t know where to look. He saw some fins and recognized a pod of Atlantic white-sided dolphins. He started stomping on the bottom of the boat (not to scare them, he reassured us, but to invite them to come and play) and sure enough, they came to “play”. They were under us, in front of us, beside us- we couldn’t look quickly enough to see them as they were racing around.

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Then there was a whale (in the left third of the photo- you can just barely make it out, but it’s there!) casually swimming and feeding along the rocks. While hard to photograph because it looked just like one of the rocks, it was wonderful to see it just gracefully moving along, spouting and flicking its tail every so often. At one point it seemed there were two of them.

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As if on cue, when the whale seemed to be growing tired of us following along beside it, the dolphins returned and did they ever put on a show. They raced alongside us and started jumping out of the water and breaching. They jumped and leaped about all over the place. It was such fun to watch and you couldn’t help but laugh and smile.

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By this point we were all a little exhausted. The fresh air and the excitement of all the action on the ocean were a little overwhelming, though in an exhilarating way. We headed back to shore, so happy that we decided to go on this tour rather than the other and so pleased with all that we had seen.


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I should mention that after leaving the iceberg I moved to the front of the boat and stood for the rest of the trip. Most of the time I was only holding on with one hand. Being able to see where we were going and standing up, rather than sitting, made for a much smoother ride and my nerves totally disappeared. I think the expertise and relaxed nature of Ed, our guide, made the difference. I actually thoroughly enjoyed the whole trip back. What a terrific experience!

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There are three recommended restaurants (and a fantastic café) in this area and luckily we had two dinners and two lunches to eat so could try them all. Tonight we went to the Daily Catch for dinner. It was packed! There were no available tables, probably as there was a local musical act performing, and we didn’t have a reservation. A couple offered for Nina and I to join them at their table. We thought that was awfully kind; sometimes after a long day you don’t want to have to entertain strangers while you enjoy dinner.

They were Judy and Gilles from Montreal and what a pleasure it was to have dinner with them. We laughed and shared stories about travelling. They travel by motorbike and this was their second time in Newfoundland. They also told us about one trip they made from Montreal to Vancouver Island… on motorbike. 19 days on the road. I imagine it must be a fantastic way to see the country.

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They told us about some new equipment they bought for this trip, including electric jackets. They plug themselves in to the bike and their jackets become like big heating blankets. I am not sure about using them in the rain… could be a little tingly! They told us how they saw moose earlier in the day and of course, that lit a little fire in us and so we headed back to the road where we were told the moose would be.

What a day it’s been. Icebergs, whales, dolphins… and yes, two moose! We finally saw one moose bum running in to the bushes, and then on our second pass we saw a rather huge mamma moose (a cow) and her baby (calf). Check! Check! Check! and Check! What a fantastic way to end an already fantastic day!

Just Puffin’ Around

Today was a day for nature and birds and then some more birds. The weather forecast threatened rain, and a fair bit of it, so we were leery to venture too far in case we got stuck out in a rainstorm. We were to go on a whale watching boat ride with a local guide but that too was weather-dependent. We headed out to a nearby lookout while we waited for him to make the call. In the end it was too choppy and our boat ride was called off. Thank goodness, as I am not good on open water in the calmest of seas. I can’t imagine I would have fared well in rough waters.

We headed to the “Italian Arm” which is a rock formation where we were told there would be puffins close up if we were willing to walk. We walked and were we ever close. One of the things I love most about being here in Newfoundland is that places aren’t busy. You could walk out and be 10 feet from a puffin (or in this case three) and there wasn’t anyone else in sight. It was awesome!

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Our host at the bed and breakfast, Keith, had told us about Dungeon’s Provincial Park. From the Bonavista website,Bonavista is built upon sedimentary deposits of the Precambrian Age (600 million years ago). On the road between Lance Cove and Bonavista you’ll find one of nature’s carvings – the Dungeon. It is a circular opening in the cliff with two seaward-side channels where the sea roars through. It is approximately 300 feet across and 15 metres deep.” Apparently you can pan for fool’s gold there. We didn’t take our chances.

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We spent a fair bit of time shooting pictures, listening to the waves crash against the rocks and just enjoying the tranquility of it all. Eventually it was time to venture on. As we were so captivated by the puffins, we decided to head to a puffin colony in nearby Elliston. Again, we were not disappointed. I should point out that we dressed more sensibly today. I traded in the sundress for long trousers and runners replaced my sandals. I did have a sleeveless shirt on though (as well as my toque and a scarf).

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We are enamored with the small local cafés and teahouses. By all accounts we have been having too many desserts but they are all homemade and so delicious. We have decided that we are on holiday so it’s well worth it and we will just walk a little extra in the end to burn it off. Today we stopped at Nanny’s Root Cellar Kitchen where I enjoyed a delicious meal of fresh capelin and fries. Nina had the chowder. It was great! These small places never disappoint.

While we were both relatively tired at this point, we decided to head down to the harbor and historical area of Bonavista. We wandered around for a bit, headed to Swyers Fresh Foods, the grocery store that has been in town since 1892, and searched in vain for the bakery that Nina said she never saw but I was sure I hadn’t dreamt. We never did find it. Probably a good thing- I am not so sure we needed any more baked goods, no matter how delicious.

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We headed back to the B&B for a much-needed nap. An afternoon rest seems to be just what is needed when you are on vacation. It’s certainly not a luxury I have during the rest of the year. From there we headed to the Bonavista Social Club. Nina had hoped to have their well-reviewed Moose burger but they were sold out. Instead we had salad and pizza while watching for whales. We didn’t see any whales but the food was delicious.

In an effort not to be driving too far too late (we were being very moose alert) we arrived back too early to go back to the bed and breakfast. It was a clear and breezy night so we headed back to the Bonavista lighthouse, to the place where Giovanni Caboto (John Cabot) landed when he first discovered North America. Apparently he exclaimed, “O! Buona vista!” and that’s how the town was named. We spent the next hour or so watching the sun slowly set. So pretty! It was the perfect end to our last day in Bonavista.

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IMG_8106Tomorrow we head to Twillingate, the iceberg capital of the world. The icebergfinder.com website indicates that there are currently icebergs off the coast of Newfoundland so we are still hopeful that we will see at least one before the end of our trip. I have a feeling it won’t happen until we are in L’Anse aux Meadows, but perhaps a whale watching boat tour might get us near to one.

Nina has been planning tomorrow as I write this blog. She has been reviewing all the places we have been eating since they have all been so yummy. She is currently working towards her next TripAdvisor badge and as a result has been diligently planning our route and our stops around cafés with excellent reviews.

Next to check off the list- icebergs and whales!

If This is Trinity, where’s Tobago?

I am my father’s daughter. I will drive in circles, and take extra time, just to get a closer parking spot. Last night, after we finished dinner and our haunted hike with Clare, I decided to move Rhonda (our car) to a closer spot so it would be easier to load our luggage in the morning before heading out. It was definitely quick to get to and made loading our bags really easy, but in the end it proved too easy as we had parked illegally and found a ticket on the windshield.

Today was our first day of driving, though we have really spent the last two days driving around so it didn’t really feel much different. While there were many “Be Moose Alert” signs, we were happy that we didn’t see any whilst driving along the highway. The drive itself was pretty uneventful, but was filled with great places like “Come By Chance” and ear worms like “Bad Blood” and “Fight Song”. I swear the station we were listening to played the same twenty songs over and over.

I might only have one match but I can make an explosion”

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We were heading to Bonavista. We stopped in Trinity to break the journey and because we were going to be too early for check in. What a great little place! As described on the Newfoundland and Labrador website, “History, friendliness, and steadfast authenticity are woven into every aspect of the Trinity area or locally known as “Trinity Bight “of Newfoundland and Labrador. From the beautifully restored fishing rooms and saltbox houses, to the lovely people greeting you in the lanes and welcoming you into their homes.” We stopped at the local café for coffee and a cookie and then wandered about, up and down the laneways.

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There wasn’t really much to see between there and Bonavista so we just headed to the B&B and then spent part of the afternoon wandering. We found a lovely Swiss chef and her husband, Neil, at Neil’s Yard right on the water and were treated to delicious crèpes. I had the local specialty with goat’s cheese, cranberries and lovage (which they harvested in the spring right in front of the café) along with a garden salad that was so fresh and crisp, it must have come straight from the garden. A cup of Assam tea and a bitter orange and dark chocolate dessert crèpe and I was pretty much ready for bed.

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Not much else to report for the day. We checked in, met our hosts, went for a walk around town and bought a few souvenirs, and then had a nap. We went to the lighthouse in the evening before dinner and it was great! As seems to be the case with us, we were underdressed though this time I wore a toque. We saw puffins and what we are sure was a whale. We even thought we might have seen a second (possibly a third) whale but then I commented that I thought it was eating a seal and we realized it might just be a pile of rocks. We had the Newfie sampler for dinner at Mifflin’s tea room and some homemade cheesecake. I think all the sweets today have set us over the edge. We are both wiped. Tomorrow needs to be an active day or Rhonda won’t be able to tow us to the other side of the rock.

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The weather is a bit cooler here, though not nearly as cold as we had anticipated. It is definitely a change from St. John’s. I will actually be able to sleep under some covers tonight and not toss and turn all night, I think.I have purchased a new toque and some fingerless gloves. I may be in a summer dress but I will have a warm head and hands. 🙂